During repairs in an apartment or house, laying tiles in a bath is considered to be a particularly difficult job, so most people tend to entrust this task to professionals. But not everything is as difficult as it seems at first glance, and tile laying can be done personally, and in order to do everything as quickly and efficiently as possible, we offer you detailed instructions and consideration of the main nuances of this process.
The choice of material and tools
Choose a bathroom tile - quite a difficult task, especially for a person who previously had no such experience.
Much simplifies the process of the fact that modern tile is available in entire collections, which consist of floor and wall tiles, as well as decorative elements. Such collections are harmoniously combined in colors and shades, have the same theme.
For arranging the interior of the house, we recommend to learn how to remove the old paint and whitewash, whitewash the ceiling and pokleit wallpaper, sheathe the door, how to make a plasterboard partition with a doorway or how to sheathe the walls with plasterboard.
The wall tile has a slightly delicate structure, which makes it easier to work in the process of cutting it.
Ideal for laying on walls is considered to be a tile that has a water absorption rate of 20%.
It should be noted that the floor tile is characterized by a more dense structure, has a low water absorption, more durable and resistant to aggressive chemicals, the most wear-resistant.
Important! When choosing a floor tile, pay attention that it is not slippery - this will reduce the risk of injury.
The surface of the purchased material should not be porous: small multiple indentations will make the task of cleaning much more difficult, and with time the pores will become clogged with dust, the tile will lose its attractive appearance, brilliance and even color.
The price of materials also plays a role and often depends not only on the quality of the tile, but also on the country of origin. It is not necessary to choose materials from expensive Italian manufacturers; you can stop at a more budgetary, but no less quality, Polish tile.
Quality material will not have any cracks, chips or uneven surfaces.
In order to be confident in the quality of the purchased material, you can ask the seller to show a certificate of quality - such a document will be a guarantee of durability and reliability.
Pay attention to the design of the purchased material - in this case it is better to build on personal preferences, rather than rely on fashion trends. Fashion is changing every year, and you will update the tile at best once in 7-10 years.
Consider in more detail how to put a light switch, a power outlet with your own hands and install a flow-through water heater, an air conditioner, a shower cabin, blinds, a sofa of pallets, a heating stove.
When you have already decided which tile you will purchase, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material. Especially difficult is the task of calculating if there are decorative elements in the collection.
To make the process of calculating the amount of material as simple as possible, it is recommended to follow the sequence of actions:
- The first step is to measure the walls and floor of the room, taking into account the location of the bathtub and washbasin. You need to calculate how many square meters will be covered with tiles.
- The next stage is going to the store and consulting with the seller about the availability of the required number of tiles you have previously chosen.
In addition to the tile, you also need to stock up:
- glue which you will fix the tiles to the walls and floor. To determine the manufacturer and the required amount of glue will help you in the store where you purchased the main material;
- glue spatula;
- fugue and latex additives for fugues;
- crosses for gaps;
- rubber mallet for laying tiles;
- tile cutter and glass cutter for tile.
Did you know? Initially, ceramic tile was made by hand and was such an expensive material that only a select few could afford such luxury. The most expensive tile in the world in the XIX century was considered the Italian tile, which in large quantities used in the construction of Catholic churches.
Surface preparation
When the tile and all additional materials and tools are purchased, you can begin to prepare the surface of the room.
Alignment
The first step in preparing for laying tile is the alignment of the walls of the room. There are several ways to align, each of which we consider in detail.
Stucco
The most common method of leveling walls is plastering. It is believed that this method is quite time-consuming and lengthy, but if you follow the basic rules and use special tools, then it will not be difficult to level the walls.
It will be useful for owners of country houses, summer cottages, as well as residents of the private sector in cities how to make a path from wood cuts, concrete paths, build a formwork for a fence foundation, make a fence from gabions, fence from a chain-link grid, and also how to build a verandah and a bathhouse , pool, toilet and cellar do it yourself
As for the material for plastering, the cement-sand mortar is considered the most budgetary. However, he prepares himself, and often inexperienced craftsmen make mistakes with the proportions of sand, cement and water. As a result, the plaster does not hold well and after a while can completely crumble.
The most reliable option is to use the material in the form of waterproof putty for the bathroom, which is produced in specialized factories.
Ready mixes are plaster and cement based. To decide which mixture to choose, you must do it yourself, based on price and personal preferences.
Before starting to apply plaster on the wall, the surface is pre-prepared: remove the old coating in the form of paint, tile, wallpaper, loose layer of plaster.
Next, you need to start the main work, which consists of:
- surface priming. If cement mortars are used as plaster, it is recommended to use a cement jelly primer consisting of water, sand and cement. Apply such a solution is necessary in order to prevent delamination of the material, improve moisture-resistant characteristics and adhesion to the surface;
- establishing beacons. Get ready-made beacons in the hardware store, which are presented in the form of long thin metal slats with perforations. Using a level and a plumb line, draw a marking for the beacons on the wall. Select the width on which the lighthouses will be placed, based on the tool that you have available for the subsequent implementation of plaster distribution, as the alignment will be performed on the beacons. Laths are mounted on plaster, which is applied pointwise, according to the previously made marking. If the construction seems unreliable to you, you can attach the slats with screws. Plaster plaster in this case acts as a leveling element, as with it you can achieve the most even placement of the rails, which in the future will serve as an excellent base for plaster;
- wall leveling. Acquired plaster is prepared and applied fairly quickly, it begins to dry after 45 minutes after application. At this time, it is just necessary to begin to level the surface of the applied plaster with the help of a metal trapezius rail. After the surface is completely dry, a primer is made using a special mixture of deep penetration.
- durability and high strength characteristics;
- plasticity of the material;
- easy application on curved bases;
- the possibility of grinding to perfect smoothness.
- high cost;
- high material consumption;
- inexpediency of use for walls with a large curvature;
- high costs of time for applying and drying a layer of plaster.
Gypsum plasterboard
Wall leveling with the help of drywall is used if there are drops of more than 5 cm on the wall or else it is necessary to hide pipes and other unnecessary elements.
To level the wall using drywall, resort to using standard drywall sheets and mounting glue.
As a decoration of the house adjoining space one should consider a waterfall, an alpine slide, a fountain, a wattle fence, a bed of stones, a trellis, a rose garden, a mixborder, a dry stream.
A prerequisite for facing the walls with this material is the strength of the base and the absence of crumbling areas.
Before you begin installation work, the wall is cleaned of wax, oil and other substances that impair the contact ability of the adhesive.
The wall must also be dry and clean before plastering the walls.
Frameless plasterboard mounting method is used if the drops on the wall are equal to no more than 2 cm. Before mounting, you must first make measurements and cut out the necessary plasterboard pieces, then apply glue to the sheet and attach it to the wall.
Did you know? Drywall was first invented by Augustine Sackett, the owner of a paper mill in the 19th century in the United States. Initially, the material consisted of 10 layers of paper, which held together a thin layer of plaster.
If the surface of the wall has large drops, then use the frame method of mounting drywall. To do this, you must first mount the frame of the metal profile. To do everything as smoothly as possible, use a level and plumb.
After the installation of drywall, you must begin to putty the joints at the joints. To do this, putty is applied to the joints, a special tape or reinforcing mesh is attached on top, to which a finishing layer of waterproof putty is applied.
After the seams are completely dry, they are treated with abrasive paper.
Above the drywall primer is a special mixture.
The advantages of using drywall to level the surface include:
- relatively low price;
- high installation speed when using frameless method;
- the ability to align the walls with the maximum curvature or the need to hide the pipe.
- the complexity of the installation, if used frame method;
- low sound insulation properties of the material;
- the possibility of deformation in contact with liquid or constant humidity between the wall and drywall.
Waterproofing
Waterproofing is necessary in order not to flood the neighbors or your house in case of breakthrough pipes or other unforeseen situations.
Important! Be sure to use waterproofing if the house is made of foam blocks, as it should be especially carefully protected from moisture.
Laying waterproofing is recommended not only on the floor, but also on the walls, in order to prevent moisture absorption by plaster or drywall, which will seep through the joints between the tiles.
There are several methods of waterproofing: roofing material and liquid materials, therefore, we consider each method in more detail.
Bulk
The best materials for liquid waterproofing include liquid glass (capable of penetrating inside the treated surface) and liquid rubber.
More budget option waterproofing is liquid glass.
There are three ways to use liquid waterproofing:
- Sprayed. This method will allow you to save the maximum amount of waterproofing liquid and greatly accelerate the process of surface treatment. For him, you must purchase a spray or spray.
- Coloring. In order to use the method of painting, get the usual roller or a wide brush. To paint all surfaces manually is a longer process, but it does not require the use of expensive equipment.
- By fill. This method is only suitable for waterproofing the floor. To do this, just pour the liquid on the prepared surface.
When the first layer of waterproofing is applied, in places of corners and joints, an additional sealing with a special waterproofing tape is made, which is mounted on top of the still not frozen layer.
After the waterproofing is applied, you must wait two days and then resume work in the bathroom. Such measures are necessary for the final drying of the applied coating.
The advantages of liquid waterproofing include:
- getting an even layer after applying materials;
- lack of joints, solidity;
- maximum penetration and traction;
- high elasticity, resistance to cracking;
- maximum waterproof properties.
The disadvantages of liquid waterproofing include:
- high cost of materials used;
- heavy removal of agents from the surface, if necessary;
- the possibility of damage to the liquid waterproofing due to exposure to solvents and substances with petroleum products.
Ruberoid
Roofing material refers to the deposited materials, which are attached to the surface using a gas burner. Before applying this material, it is necessary to heat it up and already after that glue to the concrete floor.
Important! To maximize floor grip, it is necessary to pre-coat the floor with bitumen mastic.
Before attaching the ruberoid to the floor, it is necessary to completely remove any dirt with a metal brush and cut off any irregularities.
Before laying the felt, it is rolled out and kept in such a state for at least 72 hours - this is necessary to prevent swelling and the absence of waves in the process of gluing.
The roll of roofing material is pre-cut in accordance with the size of the floor, then rolled into a roll with the wrong side inside. The place on the floor, where waterproofing will initially be fixed, is marked with chalk. After that, the edge of the ruberoid is smeared with mastic, and the same manipulation is performed with the floor. Next, tightly press the ruberoid to the floor, achieving full surface smoothness.
Sheets of roofing material overlap each other (at least 10 cm). This nuance must be considered to prevent water from seeping through the joints of the material.
The advantages of waterproofing with ruberoid include:
- material cheapness;
- easy removal of ruberoid from the surface if necessary.
The disadvantages of roofing material include:
- low elasticity, the possibility of damage due to mechanical stress;
- low service life, if waterproofing is performed incorrectly;
- the presence of joints on the surface through which water can leak due to improper adhesion technology;
- toxicity of the materials used and the need for continuous airing of the room during work.
Design and marking of walls
Before you start laying, it is necessary to mark the walls and install guides, in order to get smooth walls as a result and to cope with the task quickly.
Initially installed guides for tiles: For this, rack-mount profiles 66/42, 2 pieces are used. Measure the height of the wall and calculate the tile so that whole pieces of material are on top. Count from the top the number of whole rows of the tile, and between the bottom row and the last row of the whole tile mark the point where the guides will be installed. Next, you need to draw a line along which guides will be mounted on all four walls. It’s better to do it with a laser level with a projector - it projects lines to all four walls at once, but you can also use the usual alcohol level line.
When the lines are drawn, it is necessary to attach the guides using dowels. Do not feel sorry for the screws to make the guides as rigid and immobilized as possible.
After that, with the help of a pencil and a level, it is necessary to draw vertical and horizontal lines, which will allow to control the correctness of tile laying - whether the laying is done exactly.
Preparation of the solution
As a solution for laying the base material, it is recommended to stock up with a cement-glue mixture solution prepared with your own hands, or to buy a professional dry mix.
In order to make a cement-glue mix mortar, it is necessary to use coarse-grained washed sand and cement, not less than version 300. The amount of cement and sand particles as a result should be 1: 5 (with the cement version 300-400) and 1: 6 (with the version 500-600).
To keep the material well, it is necessary to mix 1/25 part of PVA glue into the prepared cement solution.
Sand should be used as dry as possible so that it can be easily sifted through a fine sieve. Выполнять данный процесс необходимо обязательно, во избежание попадания в раствор инородных частиц, представленных ракушками, мелкими камушками, кусками глины.Foreign elements will interfere with the normal attachment of the tile, and during tapping for better adhesion to the wall, it may crack.
Important! Cement for the preparation of the mixture should be used as fresh as possible. If it is stored for a long time, it loses its quality by 40%. - for a year of storage, and for 2 years of storage - up to 50%.
It is necessary to make the solution as follows: add 1 to 6 parts of sand to 1 part of cement (depending on the type of cement), mix well with each other. Next, a little water is added to the mixture, the composition is mixed again, the manipulation is performed until the mixture becomes the consistency of a pasty mass.
An excellent alternative to cement-glue mixes are modern dry mixes, which greatly simplify the installation work.
Such mixtures allow you to prepare a special adhesive solution for laying as quickly as possible and with minimal labor costs.
Means differ among themselves by price, properties, percentage of various additives.
Choose them based on the amount you expect to spend. And in order to select the highest quality product, consult with the seller or a specialist in laying tiles.
It is easy to prepare a solution of the purchased mixture, it is enough just to read the information on the package carefully and do everything according to the instructions.
Process technology
The time has come for the main stage - laying the tiles on the walls and facing the floor, which also have their own nuances and features that are mandatory for consideration.
Wall laying
In order for the tile on the wall to look symmetrical, it is necessary to expand the bottom layer of material along the wall. If all the tiles are completely in one line along the wall, then it is not necessary to cut it and you can start laying. If the last tile does not fully fit in one row with the others, then it is necessary to cut it. In this case, the wall is divided in half, mark this place, and the laying of the material begins with the center. Thus, the tile is laid on both sides of the line, while the whole pieces of material are placed. Then one piece is cut into two parts and stacked on both sides, where the material was not enough.
To comply with the inter-tile joint between the tiles, plastic crosses are installed, which are designed specifically for this purpose. Then in the same way it is necessary to fill the entire wall with tiles and proceed to laying the material on another wall.
Important! It is worth noting that the glue is applied to the tile with a special notched trowel to ensure good adhesion of the material to the wall.
Floor covering
Technology laying tiles on the floor is the same as on the walls. Initially, it is necessary to divide the floor into 2 parts, the whole tile is first placed on the center so that the cut material goes into corners. If it is possible to hide the cut tile under the bath, do just that.
Mark with a pencil where the whole tile will be located, and where you will place the cut material, then proceed with the laying of whole parts of the tile. When the solution, on which the whole tile has been laid, completely hardens, and it will be possible to move along it, proceed to measuring and cutting out all the missing elements. These areas are recommended to be numbered, and the same checks should be put on the already cut parts of the tile, so as not to confuse and install all the parts into place.
In the same way, it is recommended to bypass obstacles if they occur on the way. First measure the size of the barrier and on which parts of the tile they will be placed, then apply a “pattern” on the tile and cut the necessary elements.
Grout tile joints
At least 24 hours after the laying of the base material is finished, it is recommended to begin to rub the seams using a special solution of a suitable color.
Initially, the seams are cleaned of residual glue, then, using a rubber spatula, they are filled with grout.
After the time indicated on the grout packaging, it is necessary to remove excess parts of the mixture from the tile surface using a moistened sponge.
After complete drying of the solution, proceed to the final part of cleaning with a soft cloth and a hard sponge.
Important! To make the seams on the floor look tidy, do not choose too light shades of grout.
In the same way, the interfacial seams on the floor tile are also overwritten.
Thus, laying tiles in the bathroom with their own hands is a rather laborious and difficult task, which is not possible for all men. If you follow the technology and features of the processes performed, you can save time and do everything with the maximum quality.
Video: Laying tiles in the bathroom
Feedback from network users
2. The wall. Any ceramic tile is unlikely to get wet through 30 minutes of irrigation under the shower. Yes, and grout (this is a cement mortar M300) is essentially waterproofing from such a water load. If there is a desire to reduce the water absorption of the grout during its preparation, you can add a latex additive.
The grout we have CE-40, the manufacturer advises to add CS-25 for corner joints and abutments with plumbing, but I'm not sure that I will also master this version of Ceresite.
How much is it required? Or does Ceresite simply advertise their products?
Somehow it is difficult to put the tile now. Previously sculpted on a solution with the addition of PVA. It's impossible to tear off, even when you need to tear off !!! We have a Soviet tile worth 50 years, impossible to tear off, I say !!! Neighbors recently made a major overhaul with the dismantling of the bearing walls (!). There is a partition of the board between us, shingles on top of them, our tile was glued there. For their part, they dismantled the shingles, covered them with drywall, punched through holes in our toilet and bathroom — saw the neighboring block, then taped them with tape. When the load-bearing wall collapsed, our partition with a Soviet tile arched and the tile smoothly sank to the floor, cement dust from the next apartment filled all our rooms. When it was all over, her husband gently picked up the tile from the floor and glued it back onto the wall. So she is there and still stands
Why all these modern delights, I do not understand ...
